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Welcome to ShellShack, the tortoise reference and discussion website. This website was created to provide up to date and accurate information about the keeping of chelonians (tortoises, turtles and terrapins). The main focus of this website will initially be tortoises (with especial emphasis on Mediterranean tortoise species) but information on the basic care of all tortoises will be provided with additional support available through the discussion forums.
The days of tortoises being kept in aquaria and fed catfood and fruit are hopefully long gone. Even so, as a new tortoise owner there is still a bewildering array of often conflicting information available with vets, pet store owners, books and the internet all offering advice. Often the best information is difficult to obtain due to being fragmented or spread about the internet. This site aims to bring together all you need to know about tortoises in one place.
Keeping a tortoise (a healthy tortoise that is!) is more complex than it would initially seem. As tortoises can easily outlive their owners if kept properly, it is also not a decision to take lightly. If you are thinking of buying a tortoise, then please read our article 'Do I want a tortoise?' and our appropriate caresheet before purchasing the tortoise(s). The more you know about tortoises, the easier you will find it to care for your pet and the more rewarding you will find the experience.
Although some of the pages on this website are aimed primarily at the beginner, hopefully, the more experienced tortoise owner will also find this website a useful reference and find some of the articles and pages useful. The style of the site is aimed at being easy to read and understand. If long words or tortoise terminology are used, they will either be explained or a link to our glossary page will be included to provide clarity.
We recognise that whilst this website aims to provide comprehensive material about tortoises and their husbandry, it is not a definitive authority on the subject and therefore we have provided an additional way of discovering answers to your questions through our forums. Registration for the forums is free and here you can ask any question about tortoise care that is not covered elsewhere on the site. We regret that we are not always able to answer individual e-mails due to lack of resources.

Mediterranean Tortoises


'Mediterranean tortoise' is a phrase which is used to describe four species of tortoise, three of which live around the Mediterranean Sea, and one of which shares similar habits (notably hibernation) and is therefore grouped with the other three. These are the most popular tortoises in the UK (often described as 'garden tortoises' and in the 1970's and 80's were widely kept as pets in this country. This led to huge numbers of these tortoises being removed from their natural range which put severe pressure on many populations of these species. They are now protected by CITES and DEFRA and a 'license' (article 10 document) is required to buy and sell them (see History/Legal Issues page for more details).
These tortoise species are reasonably easy to keep in captivity, providing you understand and meet their requirements. Most of the tortoises imported over the last 20-30 years died within a couple of years due to poor feeding and husbandry. Today, the requirements of Mediterranean tortoises are well understood and if these are met then these species could easily outlive their owners! All four species are fairly small tortoises, which makes it easier to meet their requirements than some of their larger tropical cousins. They are well suited to life outside in the British summer, as long as they have somewhere to shelter from the rain and protection from predators, but they need indoor accommodation in spring and autumn and somewhere safe and cool to hibernate for two or three months in the winter.
Although these species are similar in their requirements, each has its own individual needs and differences and even between sub-species there are sometimes different requirements. It is therefore essential to find out exactly which species (and sub-species) of tortoise you have in order to find out more exactly what your tortoises requirements are. If you can meet these requirements, then Mediterranean tortoises make excellent pets and are far more interesting than most people imagine.

Mediterranean Species

Herman’s Tortoise (Testudo hermanni)

The Herman’s tortoise comes mostly from arid semi-desert regions of Southern Europe and is a fairly small tortoise. Young animals, and some adults (especially in the Western race), have attractive black and yellow patterned carapaces, although the brightness may fade with age to a less distinct gray, straw or yellow coloration.
There are two sub-species of Herman's tortoise, the Eastern race (Testudo hermanni boettgeri), which originates from the Balkans, Albania, Southern Italy and Yugoslavia and the western race (Testudo hermanni hermanni), which occurs in France, Mediterranean Coast of Spain and Italy. Most of the Herman's tortoises kept in the UK are Testudo hermanni boettgeri.
The main difference between the two subspecies is their size. Adult tortoises of the Western race (Testudo hermanni hermanni) are smaller reaching sizes of around 15 - 20cm, with the eastern race (Testudo hermanni boettgeri) reaching a maximum size of about. Male Herman’s tortoises tend to be smaller than females. It must be stressed that although the two subspecies are similar, they should not be kept together.
Herman’s tortoises are a very active and inquisitive tortoise. They do not burrow but will partially bury themselves in very hot or cooler weather to create their own microclimate and conserve water. In the wild they tend to emerge in the morning and warm themselves in the sun. They will then feed and when it gets too hot they return to their shelter, often under thick bushes. In the evening they usually come out to feed again before settling for the night. Captive tortoises will follow a similar pattern, warming themselves under the heat lamp or sun, feeding, then retreating to their hide/tortoise shelter. They enjoy a bath and in the wild often can be found not far from streams.
Herman's tortoises are totally herbivorous and eat a wide range of green leafy plants as well as their flowers. In the past it was common place to feed protein to these tortoises (such as cat/dog food) but this is extremely bad for the tortoise and will significantly shorten its lifespan and possibly cause deformity due to over rapid growth. They should be fed only on leafy non-toxic weeds and plants which are low in protein and high in fibre.
Herman's tortoises hibernate in the wild through the colder months of winter. To do this they dig themselves into the ground to conserve moisture and heat and reawaken in the spring. In the South of Europe, the winters are shorter and milder than in the UK, so it is not normal for these tortoises to hibernate for the length of the British winter.

Marginated Tortoise (Testudo marginata)

This species is the real Greek tortoise being found mostly in mainland Greece and some of the Mediterranean islands (where it was probably introduced). Isolated populations may occur in some of the Balkan states and Italy. This is the largest European tortoise, reaching a length of up to 12 inches and a weight that can exceed 4 kilograms. They appear longer than the other species of Mediterranean tortoise, and have flared marginals which gives rise to their name. There are three possible sub-species of this tortoise although this split is not formally recognised.
Marginated tortoises can be distinguished from other species by the pairs of triangular markings found on their plastron. Marginated tortoises usually have tan and black markings when they are young but they tend to get darker with age and may end up with very dark (almost black) carapaces in older age. Males are larger than females and have a longer tail which is thicker at the base than females.
Their preferred habitat is dry scrubland and rocky hills, especially along the coastline and although their daily habits are very similar to those of Hermann's tortoise, the marginated tortoise prefers more mountainous habitat and is found at higher altitudes. In the heat of the day they bury themselves to escape extreme temperatures.
Marginated tortoises are herbivorous and in the wild they eat a wide range of green leafy weeds and flowers. They do not need any high protein food when kept in captivity and should be fed only non-toxic broadleafed weeds and flowers.
Marginated tortoises hibernate through the colder winter months. To do this they dig themselves into the ground to conserve moisture and heat and reawaken in the spring. In the South of Europe, the winters are shorter and milder than in the UK, so it is not normal for these tortoises to hibernate for the length of the British winter.

Spur-thighed Tortoise (Testudo graeca)

Also known as the Greek tortoise, this species can be found right across the Eastern Mediterranean and North Africa, with numerous sub-species existing. The exact number of sub-species is still under consideration but two of the most common species are Testudo graeca ibera which comes from Turkey, Greece, Macedonia, Bulgaria and Romania, and Testudo graeca graeca which comes from North Africa, Southern Spain, Sardinia, and the Balearic Islands. These are the main sub-species of this tortoise which are likely to be encountered in the UK. It is very important to make sure exactly which subspecies of tortoise you have as different sub-species have different requirements and should not be kept together.
It is difficult to describe this species in general due to the wide variations in size, colour and habitat between the different sub-species of tortoise. They are all arid species ranging from the semi-desert and scrubland habitats or Hermann's and Marginated tortoises to hotter, more arid desert regions of North Africa. Most sub-species hibernate, but for different lengths of time and some of the more sensitive species will fail to thrive outdoors in the British summer. The two sub-species mentioned above however come from similar climates and as such can be treated much the same way as Hermann's or marginated tortoises with regards hibernation and general husbandry.
The species gets its name from the noticeable spurs on the thighs of its back legs. Males tend to be smaller than females and have a longer tapering tail and generally a curved underside.
All sub-species of spur thighed tortoise are completely herbivorous and will do best on a diet which matches that of their natural environment. This would consist of broad leafed weeds and flowers in captivity such as clover and dandelion.
Horsfield's Tortoise (Testudo horsfieldi)

Although grouped with the Mediterranean tortoises (because of vaguely similar care requirements and the fact that it hibernates), This tortoise is not in fact from the Mediterranean at all instead coming from Pakistan, Eastern Iran, Afghanistan, Western China and Russia. It is also commonly known as the Russian tortoise. It is a fairly small tortoise reaching maximum lengths of up to eight and a half inches.
Horsefield's tortoises tend to have a pale or olive green carapace colour overlaid with darker brown areas. The limbs and head tend to be yellow or brown. It is fairly heavy in shape with a rounded carapace and is almost as wide as it is long. Females tend to be larger than males.
The preferred habitat of this tortoise is inland, mountainous regions and sandy/grassy steppes, often near to water. They are known to excavate long burrows up to two meters long in which they spend a greater part of the year. Horsfield's tortoises are only active in spring and early summer across a large part of their range. In captivity, this species is particularly intolerant of damp/humid conditions.
Horsefield's tortoises are totally herbivorous and eat a wide range of green leafy plants as well as grass and flowers. They should not under any circumstances be fed any foods containing protein or any fruit as this can cause deformities and/or gut problems.
Horsfield's tortoises hibernate through the colder winter months. To do this they dig themselves into the ground to conserve moisture and heat and reawaken in the spring. These tortoises live in places which have long and cold winters. They live farther North than any other species of tortoise. In this respect they differ from other Mediterranean tortoises in that they hibernate for longer periods in the wild (reportedly up to eight months) and therefore is the only Mediterranean tortoise species which could possibly be able to hibernate for the length of the British winter.

Tropical Tortoises


The phrase 'tropical tortoise' is a term which is loosely applied to a wide variety of tortoise species. The main inference which can be drawn from the phrase 'tropical tortoise' is that the species in question is a tortoise which is not one of the Mediterranean species. In general, species hailed as 'tropical' do in fact come from the tropics! It is impossible, however, to band such a wide group of tortoise species together when it comes to tortoise husbandry and care as the tropics contains a wide variety of different habitats and the needs of different species are different. The important thing to do if you are considering buying a tropical species of tortoise is to find out as much as possible about the species, its habitat in the wild, and its needs in captivity.
Tropical tortoises are often described as being more difficult to keep in captivity than Mediterranean species. This is not necessarily the case, but there are some additional dimensions to the care of these tortoises which need to be considered. In general, these species tend to be larger than their Mediterranean cousins, some of them significantly so. This means that they take up a lot more space and may not be suitable for keeping indoors. These tortoises may have different dietary requirements which need to be met year round and as these tortoise species do not hibernate, and need to be kept in an artificial environment throughout the winter months. If you can meet their requirements, however, these tortoises can make very rewarding pets.
Broadly speaking, there are two rough groupings of tropical tortoise which commonly occur in the UK. These are the arid/grassland species such as the leopard tortoise (Geochelone paradis) or the African spurred tortoise (Geochelone sulcata), (not to be confused with the spur thighed tortoise (Testudu graeca) which is a Mediterranean species), and the species which live in more humid rainforest climes such as the red footed tortoise (Geochelone carbonaria). This article will attempt to describe the various tropical tortoise species commonly offered for sale in the UK, and will briefly describe their origin and needs to provide a basic level of understanding about each species. This is however an overview and it is advisable to seek more comprehensive information on a particular species if you intend to keep them. This page does not seek to address the care of box turtles or hingeback turtles or any of the other more unusual species which are tropical in origin, only those species which are commonly available in the UK are described.

Arid/Grassland Species

African spurred tortoise (Geochelone sulcata)

This tortoise (commonly called the sulcata) inhabits the southern edge of the Saharah desert in Africa. They are therefore well adapted to hot, dry climates. In the wild they get most of their moisture from their diet, (although they enjoy a drink and a wallow when they get the chance) and they regulate their temperature and humidity needs by retreating into burrows which provide them with their own microclimate. The Sulcata is the third largest species of tortoise in the world, and is the largest of the mainland tortoises. Adults are usually at least 18-24 inches in length, and weigh 70 to 100 pounds. Specimens up to 30 inches long and weighing almost 200 pounds have been reported. They grow very quickly, some reaching 10 inches in length in their first few years.
African spurred tortoises do not hibernate, and they love to dig, and make very long burrows. These tortoises require very high fiber diets and in the wild eat mostly grass and weeds. Feeding many vegetables or fruit to captive sulcatas can cause health problems due to changing their gut flora and pH and too much protein causes over rapid growth and deformities. It is essential that these tortoises are fed a high fibre diet consisting of mostly grass or grass hay supplemented with broadleaved weeds. Young sulcatas grow very and for proper bone and shell development, their diet must include adequate calcium. In the wild, this is provided b Sulcatas need a large enclosure as they get bigger and should be given a generous grazing area. Sulcatas should be kept above 60F, which means that in the UK they will require special winter accommodation. These animals can be challenging to keep due to their large size and their dietary and temperature requirements. They are very powerful and very persistent and so any housing needs to be very strong. That siad they are renowned for having an excellent temperament and make good pets if you have the room and can meet their needs.

Leopard tortoise (Geochelone pardalis)

The Leopard tortoise is one of the tropical species of tortoise which is most commonly kept in the UK. Leopard tortoises are a dry, grassland/savannah species from Africa and they have a large natural range covering much of sub-Saharan Africa, being found all the way from Sudan all the way to South Africa.
They are a medium to large tortoise and on average grow to be 16 to 18 inches long and can weigh approximately 40 pounds. Exceptional specimens have been known to grow to over two feet and weigh up to 80 pounds, but this is more unusual. There is currently much debate over the exact taxonomy of the leopard tortoise with some suggesting that there are no sub-species and others suggesting as many as four splits. The most generally accepted view is that there are two subspecies, Geochelone pardalis babcocki and Geochelone pardalis pardalis which is found only in the Southern parts of the natural range of this tortoise. The leopard tortoise is a colourful animal with contrasting black and yellow colours on the carapace which provide excellent camouflage in the wild.
Its natural home is the savannah, which is naturally hot and dry and therefore this species cannot tolerate damp conditions. They appreciate going outside in the UK but must not be kept on lawns or other such damp places as even the morning dew can make the conditions too wet for this arid species.
These tortoises are exclusively herbivorous and their diet in the wild consists of a wide range of grasses, cactus and broad leaved weeds. In captivity this high fibre, low protein diet should be continued with grasses and hay making up a large portion of the diet, supplemented with weeds such as dandelion and clover etc. Fruit should be offered rarely if at all.
Captive bred specimens of this attractive tortoise are readily available in the UK, and it is an attractive pet if you can provide it with the space and conditions it needs.

Indian star tortoise (Geochelone elegans)

The star tortoise or Indian star tortoise is found in a number of different habitats ranging from semi-desert, to more moist deciduous forests although all of these habitats are dry for a large part of the year. It is a medium to large sized tortoise although not as big as the leopard tortoise. It can attain a maximum size of 12-14 inches with a weight of 6 kilograms although most specimens are smaller than this. Females are always larger than males, who seldom exceed 8 inches in length. In adults this difference in size is quite obvious. Female tortoises tend to have a more rounded appearance than males, and the males always have a much longer tail and a concave plastron.
The shell colour tends to be yellowish brown (of various hues), with wedge-shaped black areas on each scute, which from the star pattern from which this tortoise gets its name. The species comes from large parts of India, Southeast Pakistan and Sri Lanka. There are three suggested sub-species. North Indian, Southern Indian and Sri Lankan. The North Indian sub-species are larger whilst the Southern Indian sub-species are more brightly coloured. The Sri Lankan sub-species is as large as the Northern but as colourful as the Southern, and it is this sub-species of tortoise which is most often encountered in the pet trade.
large as the Northern but as colourful as the Southern, and it is this sub-species of tortoise which is most often encountered in the pet trade.
Star tortoises are predominantly herbivorous eating mainly different grasses, although they will eat carrion and insects when they get the chance. Fresh grass is often only available during the monsoon period. During long periods of drought or in cooler weather, the Star tortoise becomes fairly inactive and feeds only sporadically. They also need some sort of protection from hot sunshine and readily hide amongst rocks or thick vegetation. In captivity, their diet should consist of grass and broadleaved weeds.
Star tortoises have a reputation of being fragile and difficult to keep. They can be extremely sensitive to respiratory problems if kept too cold or too damp and also seem to be sensitive to problems caused by exposure to other species of tortoise. If these problems can be over come then they make very attractive pets.

Humid/Rainforest Species

Burmese brown tortoise (Manouria emys)

The Burmese brown tortoise comes from moist, upland forest habitats in the tropical regions of central Asia and are found in Assam, Burma, Thailand, the Malay Peninsula, Sumatra and Borneo. They are a large tortoise (the fourth largest in the world) and may reach weights of up to 100 pounds. There are two subspecies Manouria emys is the smaller and this is the Burmese brown, with Manouria phayerei often called the Burmese black. Both subspecies are also known as the mountain tortoise or the six legged tortoise due to the large scales on the back legs. The burmese tortoise has a deep brown shell which is relatively smooth with no real pattern on it. These tortoises are sometimes considered to be the most ancient group of tortoises still alive today and they have very scaly almost prehistoric looking legs and a slow steady gait.
They prefer a temperature range between 13 to 29 degrees centigrade and need quite high humidity (60 to 100 percent). In the wild these tortoises often live near streams and they usually sit out the hottest part of the day in the shade or in mud wallows so they will need somewhere to hide and enjoy water in their enclosure. They are often crepuscular (active in the morning and evening) in nature, but in the UK will happily wander about and bask in the sunshine on cooler days. They appreciate rain and in captivity will enjoy artificial showers or mists and these will often cause the tortoise to feed.
The diet of these tortoises is mostly herbivorous but can very varied and includes more protein than that of most grazing tortoises as carrion and invertebrates are readily available in their natural forest habitat. They don't eat so much grass but will readily take broadleaf weeds and vegetables. Some fruit and invertebrates such as worms can also be offered.
These tortoises can be shy at first, especially when they are younger, but are they can be very inquisitive and make good pets if you have room for them.

Red footed tortoise (Geochelone carbonaria)

Red-footed tortoises live in tropical forests and grasslands in tropical South America and have been introduced to some islands in the Carribean. It gets its name from the red or orange coloured scales on its limbs, head and tail. Red footed tortoises are a medium sized tortoise and usually reach a maximum length of 16 inches although most only grow to about 10-14 inches. The maximum weight is about 30 pounds. A smaller variety exists (although there is no official species split) which is called the cherry headed tortoise. These tortoises are very brightly coloured and reach a maximum length of 12 inches.
This species of tortoise is tropical and does not hibernate. They prefers a humid climate similar to their forest homes and are a reasonably hardy species as they can tolerate a range of conditions. They enjoy muddy wallows and a bath and in captivity will appreciate a sprinkler or mister to increase the humidity if needed. An area densely planted with vegetation is preferred as a retreat or if not a shelter of some kind will be used. Daytime temperatures need to be 25-35 degrees centigrade and the temperature should not drop below 18 degrees centigrade at night.
In the wild, red footed tortoises are omnivores and eat a wider range of food than many other tortoises. They are also more tolerant of fruit than most tortoises which reflects their forest habitat where fruit and carrion would be more abundant than for more arid species. A variety of broad leafed weeds, supplemented with some fruit and occasional protein (once a week maximum) should be fed supplemented with calcium.

Marine/Aquatic Tortoises


There are a large number of other tortoises and turtles which are for sale in the UK. Many of these species are aquatic or semi-aquatic and all have differing requirements which need to be met. Some of these species are strictly controlled by CITES and DEFRA and some are very large and (for example snapping turtles) ferocious and potentially dangerous pets. These species come from a wide range of habitats and climates and range from the strictly herbivorous to the strictly carnivorous. Before purchasing any turtle or tortoise, it is absolutely essential to make sure you have researched their natural environment and their requirements in captivity to ensure they are cared for properly.
This website does not seek to explain the care and husbandry of these species (although future expansion cannot be ruled out) and provides detailed information on only the Mediterranean species and the more commonly available tropical species of tortoise. Below are a few basic details about other tortoises, turtles and terrapins which are encountered in the UK.

Box Turtles

Box turtles can be found in the wild in North America and Asia. American box turtles are widespread throughout Eastern, Central and Southwestern states as far North as Canada and South into Mexico. Box turtles are semi-aquatic and need access to a body of water and their natural habitat is mostly woodland and scrubby grassland with well drained soil. Box turtles eat plant matter, which they mainly find on land although they will take a much larger proportion of invertebrates (especially when young) in their diet than most tortoises. They require plenty of fresh shallow water and while they are not strong swimmers, they will splash around for considerable periods of time and have been known to forage for aquatic plants and invertebrates. Asiastic box turtles are generally more aquatic than American species. They spend the time when they are not looking for food wedged beneath rocks or logs or in burrows to escape predation.

Red Eared Terrapin

This is the terrapin that used to be popular as a pet and in schools and can also be found living wild in the UK due to large numbers of these animals being dumped once they became too large. Their natural range is the Americas, with the species being found in all temperate and tropical waters. Also called the red eared slider in the USA, this turtle is mostly aquatic spending the day searching for food or hauled out onto log or other objects to sunbathe. They grow to be about 12 inches long and get their name from the red patches behind the ears. They can be quite gregarious in the wild (and in captivity if given enough space) and prefer slow moving fresh water with an adequate supply of food available. In the wild they are omnivorous and eat fish, invertebrates and plants. In captivity, plant matter should make up at least 50% of their diet. The eggs are laid on land and take about thirty days to hatch and in the more Northern parts of its range the species will hibernate in the mud.

Legal Issues with Tortoises


A Brief History of the Sale of Tortoises in the UK

Mediterranean tortoises have been imported into the UK and other European countries since at least the 1890's. Between then and 1984 (when the trade in wild tortoises was made illegal) it is estimated that in excess of 10 million tortoises were imported to the Uk.
Most of these tortoises were of the four Mediterranean species and due to poor transport and poor husbandry, many were dead on arrival in this country or were sick, injured or weakened. Of those that were bought as pets it is estimated that less than 10% survived their first year in captivity, mostly due to poor understanding of the tortoises requirements and poor husbandry.
In 1984 the EEC decided to put three species of tortoise (Spur-thighed, Hermann's and Marginated) on to Appendix 1 of the Convention for International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) endangered list. This prohibited gathering these tortoises from the wild and regulated the commercial trade in these species which meant that they were better protected. Mediterranean tortoises offered for sale today, should all have been bred in captivity.

Legal Issues Regarding the Sale of Tortoises in the UK

Many people think that it is illegal to offer any tortoise for sale within the United Kingdom - this, however is not the case. Some species of tortoise are considered to be endangered (often due to excessive trading and collection from the wild in the past) and these tortoise species have been placed on the CITES (Convention on Trade In Endangered Species) protection register. The UK Government department responsible for enforcing compliance with regards to tortoise trading is called DEFRA. DEFRA are also responsible for issuing "article 10" certificates for tortoise species which are on the protection register. These article 10 certficates are what is often referred to as 'tortoise licenses'.
Before purchasing or selling a tortoise it is essential to know whether your tortoise requires a certificate or not. The following chart whether a certificate is currently required or not.

Mediterranean Tortoise Caresheet


Introduction

This care sheet is intended to offer general advice on the care of Mediterranean tortoises. It does not tell you everything you need to know about caring for these tortoises but is intended as a starting point. Each area of tortoise care should be thoroughly researched before buying a tortoise and the individual needs of the species and sub-species concerned should be taken into consideration. These views are our own opinions from our experience with tortoises and are not necessarily in total agreement with other tortoise keepers or breeders. The information contained within this care sheet should, if followed reasonably closely, result in a happy and healthy tortoise.

Housing

In the past many tortoises (and especially young tortoises) were kept in aquaria and fish tanks or similar housing. It is now known that this is not suitable for Mediterranean tortoises of any age, because the lack of air flow due to the enclosed nature of an aquarium meant that the relative humidity was much too high for the tortoise (which comes from arid climes) and caused respiratory problems. The best way of housing your tortoise indoors, is in a tortoise table or some other sort of open enclosure. These should be made from wood or wood and polycarbonate and need to be large enough for the species concerned. An absolute minimum of 4 square feet for one tortoise is a guide size, but obviously the bigger the better. If you are housing more than one tortoise (and especially if you have a male and female(s)) you need to ensure plenty of space and some sight breaks within your set up.
Outdoors, a secure area is essential, especially for juvenile tortoises to prevent predation, theft, or escape. A surprisingly large number of native animals and pets would like to eat your tortoise with dogs, cats, foxes, badgers, herons, crows and magpies all being on the list. This outdoor area needs to be as large as possible with a variety of plants, soil and lawn being the best habitat. Many people provide all or part of a greenhouse for their tortoise to retreat to in cooler or inclement weather, but they also need to be able to access a cooler area than just the greenhouse to enable them to regulate their own body temperature. If a greenhouse is not available a wooden shelter (or dog kennel) with a rainproof lockable lid is essential in case of rain and to provide shelter and a cooler, darker environment should it be hot. The outdoor area also needs to be escape proof as Mediterranean tortoises are excellent at digging (especially Horsfield's). A run on a lawn is not suitable for a Mediterranean tortoise as the grass is too damp and may cause health problems.

Heating

Mediterranean tortoises come from arid, warm environments where in the summer the temperatures frequently top thirty degrees centigrade and therefore need additional heat sources when kept indoors in the UK. The background temperature of the room in which the tortoise is kept needs to be at least 20 degrees centigrade and a basking lamp (or more than one if you have several tortoises living together) must be provided. These can take the form of an ordinary light bulb, a special reptile bulb which also emit UV radiation, or a ceramic heating element. Whichever you choose, the ground temperature under the basking lamp should be around thirty degrees centigrade and the lamp should not be close enough for the tortoises to be able to touch it (they will readily climb onto each other) to avoid burns. Heat mats and hot rocks are unsuitable for Mediterranean tortoises and will cause burns to your tortoises if used. There needs to be enough room for your tortoises to all be able to get underneath the basking lamp to ensure that each tortoise can adequately regulate its body temperature. In order to provide a temperature gradient within the tortoise enclosure, it is advisable to put all heating at one end, preferably the opposite end to the tortoises shelter. Care is necessary when placing other objects in your tortoise's enclosure that the tortoise cannot fall on its back under the lamp in an area where it would not be able to right itself as this could lead to dehydration.

Lighting

The Mediterranean is an area which receives almost constant bright sunshine throughout the spring and summer months and this is what a tortoise is designed for. The sun provides the heat which the tortoise needs as described above, but it also provides ultra violet light in the form of UVa and UVb rays. In captivity this light has to be provided artificially for your tortoise and especially if your tortoise is to be kept indoors for a significant part of the year. Tortoises need UVa light in order to maintain their general behaviour patterns and to remain active and healthy. For instance, tortoises which get plenty of UVa light are reputed to be more likely to breed successfully. The main requirement of your tortoise is UVb light. Tortoises need a large amount of calcium in their diet in order to grow normally and produce healthy bones and shells. In order to metabolise this calcium your tortoise also needs adequate supplies of vitamin D3. In the wild, tortoises produce their own vitamin D3 from the UVb rays in the sunlight. In captivity it is vital therefore, if you do not want your tortoise to become seriously ill, that you provide adequate amounts of UVb light for your tortoise. In summer this is relatively easy if your tortoise is put outside in the sunshine. When your tortoise is indoors, artificial light is required and this is best provided by special fluorescent tubes (note:normal fluorescent tubes will not do) available from specialist pet stores. The normal UVb tubes (often rated 5.0) are sufficient and very high rated tubes may be detrimental to your tortoises' sight in the long term. The larger the tubes and the more you have the better for your tortoise, however it is advisable to have these tubes at one side of the enclosure (away from the hides/shelters and at the same end as the basking lamps is best) to provide a light gradient within the enclosure. Fluorescent tubes need to be situated as close to the tortoise as possible to provide adequate UVb light. If the tubes are more than 18 inches away from the tortoises then much of their effect will be lost. Fluorescent tubes give out a negligible amount of heat and can not be used as a substitute for basking lamps.

Substrate

Many different theories and opinions exist as to what is the correct substrate for tortoises. Although many people have success using shredded newspaper, old towels or alfalfa pellets and other such artificial substrates, we believe that the most natural thing is a natural substrate and suggest 2 ways of doing this.
For smaller tortoise tables, the use of seed trays with different substrates such as rocks, gravel, sand, compost and plants makes cleaning and changing the substrate easy and allows for preparation of planted trays which can then just be swapped.
Our preferred method is to use a 50/50 mix of clean sand (such as playpit sand) and topsoil to a depth of 3-4 inches as the substrate for the whole enclosure. Some gravel can be added to this mix and at least one area of larger stones/small rocks is essential to help keep tortoises claws in shape and to provide interest. Plants can then be added as well as sterilised logs (if found out doors first soak in very strong salt solution for 48 hours and then water for 48 hours and allow to thoroughly dry) to provide further interest and in the case of plants, food!

Feeding and Supplements

In the wild Mediterranean tortoises cover large areas in search of their primary food: weeds. In captivity this diet must be imitated as closely as possible. There is still a lot of conflicting advice about the correct diet for tortoises, but the two important facts to grasp are firstly that it must be low in protein and high in fibre, and secondly that it should have a high ratio of calcium to phosphorous. In the wild your tortoise would naturally select such items itself, in captivity, you have to provide this diet and failure to do so will result in a deformed or unhealthy tortoise and ultimately a dead one.
Low protein dictates that these species should not ever be fed meat, cat/dog food or 'tortoise chow' in any form. This also suggests that items such as legumes (peas and beans) which are high in vegetable proteins should not be fed or should be fed extremely rarely. Other shop bought greens such as lettuce and cabbage etc. either have no nutritional value, or have a low ratio of calcium to phosphorous. Feeding these items is detrimental to your tortoise and results in over rapid growth, deformity, and death. Fruit and vegetables upset the balance of a tortoises natural gut flora and do not make up a significant part of a wild Mediterranean tortoises diet. These items should be fed in extreme moderation as a treat, or ideally not at all.
Mediterranean tortoises should be fed a diet which consists of broadleaved non-toxic weeds either harvested from a safe place (i.e. somewhere away from busy roadsides and where pesticides are not used) or grown specifically for the purpose. The flowers of many of these plants are as popular (or more so) as the leaves. Typical plants which should make up the bulk of a tortoise diet include dandelions, clover and plantains. A more comprehensive list of edible plants is found on our edible plants page. All food offered to your tortoise should be lightly dusted with calcium powder and twice a week a good vitamin supplement (designed for reptiles) should be offered.
Mediterranean tortoises live in areas where food is not abundant and therefore in the wild feed opportunistically. You can overfeed your tortoise even offering only weeds, and so we find that a good regime is to feed your tortoise as much as it will eat in one sitting four days a week. You could quite easily feed everyday with a smaller amount.

Water

All tortoises, even those from more arid regions appreciate water and contrary to popular belief will drink on a fairly regular basis. Fresh drinking water should therefore be always available in both indoor and outdoor enclosures. Most tortoises enjoy a bath, and this can be a good time to examine your tortoise carefully. The water in the bath should be no higher than the bottom of your tortoises shell (tortoises can drown). Don't worry if your tortoise sticks its head under the water as the can hold their breath for some time. Your tortoise will often urinate or defacate in the water at bath time. This is normal behaviour as the tortoise is sure whilst it is stood in water that it will get some more to replace that lost from the bladder. Just remove the soiled water and replace with fresh. Bath water should be tepid to luke warm only.

Shelter

All tortoises like to get away from it all once in a while. In the wild, many tortoise species either burrow or partially burrow and make use of dense foliage and scrub to conceal themselves whilst they rest. In captivity, tortoises need to be provided with some sort of shelter in both indoor and outdoor accommodation where it is cooler and darker to enable them to regulate their behaviour and body temperature. Failure to provide an adequate shelter will result in a stressed tortoise. Shelters can either be proprietary hollow logs/caves, or a constructed wooden shelter big enough to adequately house your tortoise/tortoises.

Hibernating

In the wild, Mediterranean tortoises hibernate through the colder winter months from the year that they are born. In captivity therefore, in order to ensure normal behaviour (and especially if you are planning on breeding your tortoises), it is best to hibernate your tortoise if you can. A detailed explanation of the different methods of hibernation is beyond the scope of this care sheet, but can be found on the hibernation page of this website.
The normal method of hibernating a tortoise is to place the tortoise in a box with some insulation (dry soil or newspaper) and then to put this box inside a much larger box which is packed with insulating material such as polystyrene. This box must then be placed in a cool safe place (between 3 and 8 degrees centigrade) for the period of hibernation.
The two things which kill or maim hibernating tortoises, are extreme temperatures and predators. If the temperature rises above 10 degrees centigrade during hibernation, your tortoise will begin to wake up which will deplete its valuable energy reserves. If this happens often, then your tortoise may possibly even die or will be in a serious state of ill health in the spring. Conversely, if the temperature falls towards freezing point, your tortoise may literally freeze to death. Brief exposure to sub-zero temperatures can result in blindness and limb damage. Try to keep your tortoise in as stable an environment as possible and monitor the temperature with a minimum/maximum thermometer. Whilst your tortoise is dormant, it is very vulnerable to predators in search of an easy meal. The most common predators of hibernating tortoises are rats and mice. If your hibernation location is not secure from rats and mice (such as sheds or outbuildings), it is essential to totally surround your tortoise with fine gauge wire mesh to protect it from predation.
The other reason why tortoises fail to thrive after hibernation or die during it is incorrect preparation of the tortoise or poor pre-hibernation condition. Check your tortoise thoroughly several weeks before you plan to hibernate and if it shows any signs of ill health do not hibernate it at all. Also if your tortoise is underweight for its size, it should not be hibernated. The Jackson ratio (see hibernation page) can be used to decide if your tortoise is heavy enough to hibernate. Tortoises which are not fit or heavy enough to hibernate, should be overwintered in an environment which maintains artificially high levels of heat and light and fed throughout the winter period. To prepare your tortoise for hibernation, do not feed it for several weeks before hibernation and give it several baths to ensure a full bladder. Tortoises should be checked regularly during hibernation and woken if the is any perceived problem, or if they have urinated.

Health and Hygiene

It is important to keep your tortoises' indoor and outdoor enclosures clean to prevent disease. Spot clean meticulously any faeces or urine in the substrate, and change all or part of the substrate on a regular basis.
Tortoises can carry bacteria (notably salmonella) which can be harmful to humans and especially young children. Always wash your hands after handling your tortoise or their equipment and don't use kitchen sinks/bathrooms for washing/bathing tortoises or their equipment.

Tropical Tortoise Caresheet


Introduction

This care sheet is intended to offer general advice on the care of the Tropical tortoise species described elsewhere on this website. It does not tell you everything you need to know about caring for these tortoises or reflect the needs of every species but is intended as a starting point. Each area of tortoise care should be thoroughly researched before buying a tortoise and the individual needs of the species and sub-species concerned should be taken into consideration. These views are our own opinions from our experience with tortoises and are not necessarily in total agreement with other tortoise keepers or breeders. The information contained within this care sheet should, if followed reasonably closely, result in a happy and healthy tortoise.

Housing

In the past many tortoises (and especially young tortoises) were kept in aquaria and fish tanks or similar housing. It is now known that this is not suitable for tortoises of any age, because the lack of air flow due to the enclosed nature of an aquarium meant that the relative humidity was much too high for the tortoise and caused respiratory problems. With tropical tortoise species it is essential to know whether your tortoise comes from arid climes (such as sulcatas and leopard tortoises) or from more humid climates (such as the red footed tortoise).
Indoors, tropical species can be housed in much the same way as Mediterranean species, but with a few differences. Firstly in scale. Species such as sulcatas and Burmese browns are huge and even leopard tortoises are much bigger than any of the Mediterranean species.. A small tortoise table is not going to be sufficient. Make sure that your indoor enclosure is both large enough and strong enough for these species as they do not hibernate and will have to spend the entire spring, autumn and winter indoors. Humidity is another issue. Some rainforest species (such as red footed tortoises) will need a higher humidity than arid species (such as sulcatas). This can be achieved by installation of an automatic sprayer/mister in the enclosure and by providing an area of the enclosure which is more closed in. As with all aspects of tortoise care, a gradient is preferable with a more humid end and a less humid end of the enclosure.
The best way of housing your tortoise indoors, is in a tortoise table or some other sort of open enclosure. These should be made from wood or wood and polycarbonate and need to be large enough for the species concerned. The bigger the better is the way to go with tropical tortoise enclosures and this needs to be scaled up or down depending on the species of tortoise concerned. If you are housing more than one tortoise (and especially if you have a male and female(s)) you need to ensure plenty of space and some line of sight breaks within your set up.
Outdoors, a secure area is essential, especially for juvenile tortoises to prevent predation, theft, or escape. A surprisingly large number of native animals and pets would like to eat your tortoise with dogs, cats, foxes, badgers, herons, crows and magpies all being on the list. This outdoor area needs to be as large as possible with a variety of plants, soil and lawn being the best habitat. Many people provide all or part of a greenhouse for their tortoise to retreat to in cooler or inclement weather, but they also need to be able to access a cooler area than just the greenhouse to enable them to regulate their own body temperature. If a greenhouse is not available a wooden shelter (or dog kennel) with a rainproof lockable lid is essential in case of rain and to provide shelter and a cooler, darker environment should it be hot. The outdoor area also needs to be escape proof as some species of tropical tortoises are excellent at digging. Again, run on a lawn is not suitable for a tropical tortoise as the grass is too damp and may cause health problems.

Heating

Tropical tortoises come from the tropics where the weather is almost always very warm and daytime temperatures are normally in excess of 30 degrees centigrade and therefore they need additional heat sources when kept indoors in the UK. The background temperature of the room in which a tropical tortoise is kept needs to be at least 25 degrees centigrade and a basking lamp (or more than one if you have several tortoises living together) must be provided. These can take the form of an ordinary light bulb, a special reptile bulb which also emit UV radiation, or a ceramic heating element. Whichever you choose, the ground temperature under the basking lamp should be around 30-33 degrees centigrade and the lamp should not be close enough for the tortoises to be able to touch it (they will readily climb onto each other) to avoid burns. Heat mats and hot rocks are unsuitable for heating tropical tortoise enclosures, and will cause burns to your tortoises if used. There needs to be enough room for your tortoises to all be able to get underneath the basking lamp to ensure that each tortoise can adequately regulate its body temperature. In order to provide a temperature gradient within the tortoise enclosure, it is advisable to put all heating at one end, preferably the opposite end to the tortoises shelter. Care is necessary when placing other objects in your tortoise's enclosure that the tortoise cannot fall on its back under the lamp in an area where it would not be able to right itself as this could lead to dehydration.

Lighting

Most tropical tortoises (with the exception of some rainforest species) are used to almost constant bright sunshine in the wild and this is what a tortoise is designed for. The sun provides the heat which the tortoise needs as described above, but it also provides ultra violet light in the form of UVa and UVb rays. In captivity this light has to be provided artificially for your tortoise and especially if your tortoise is to be kept indoors for a significant part of the year. Tortoises need UVa light in order to maintain their general behaviour patterns and to remain active and healthy. For instance, tortoises which get plenty of UVa light are reputed to be more likely to breed successfully. The main requirement of your tortoise is UVb light. Tortoises need a large amount of calcium in their diet in order to grow normally and produce healthy bones and shells. In order to metabolise this calcium your tortoise also needs adequate supplies of vitamin D3. In the wild, tortoises produce their own vitamin D3 from the UVb rays in the sunlight. In captivity it is vital therefore, if you do not want your tortoise to become seriously ill, that you provide adequate amounts of UVb light for your tortoise. In summer this is relatively easy if your tortoise is put outside in the sunshine. When your tortoise is indoors, artificial light is required and this is best provided by special fluorescent tubes (note:normal fluorescent tubes will not do) available from specialist pet stores. The normal UVb tubes (often rated 5.0) are sufficient and very high rated tubes may be detrimental to your tortoises' sight in the long term. The larger the tubes and the more you have the better for your tortoise, however it is advisable to have these tubes at one side of the enclosure (away from the hides/shelters and at the same end as the basking lamps is best) to provide a light gradient within the enclosure. Fluorescent tubes need to be situated as close to the tortoise as possible to provide adequate UVb light. If the tubes are more than 18 inches away from the tortoises then much of their effect will be lost. Fluorescent tubes give out a negligible amount of heat and can not be used as a substitute for basking lamps.

Substrate

Many different theories and opinions exist as to what is the correct substrate for tortoises. Although many people have success using shredded newspaper, old towels or alfalfa pellets and other such artificial substrates, we believe that the most natural thing is a natural substrate and suggest 2 ways of doing this.
For smaller tortoise tables, the use of seed trays with different substrates such as rocks, gravel, sand, compost and plants makes cleaning and changing the substrate easy and allows for preparation of planted trays which can then just be swapped.
Our preferred method is to use a 50/50 mix of clean sand (such as playpit sand) and topsoil to a depth of 3-4 inches as the substrate for the whole enclosure. Some gravel can be added to this mix and at least one area of larger stones/small rocks is essential to help keep tortoises claws in shape and to provide interest. Plants can then be added as well as sterilised logs (if found out doors first soak in very strong salt solution for 48 hours and then water for 48 hours and allow to thoroughly dry) to provide further interest and in the case of plants, food! Some species (such as red footed tortoises) will appreciate a much more densely planted enclosure whilst more arid species will appreciate more sand and grass.

Feeding and Supplements

This caresheet is aimed at the commonly encountered tropical species in the UK. Most of these species are arid or dry grassland species and the advice given here is primarily aimed at these tortoises. The notable exception to the rules of feeding below, is the red footed tortoise, which can tolerate more fruit and small amounts of protein in their diet (being primarily a rainforest species). There is no excuse for not finding out the exact dietary requirements of your tortoise species in more detail than can be provided on a brief general purpose caresheet.
In the wild most tropical tortoises cover large areas in search of their primary food: weeds and grasses. In captivity this diet must be imitated as closely as possible. There is still a lot of conflicting advice about the correct diet for arid or grassland tropical tortoises, but the two important facts to grasp are firstly that it must be low in protein and high in fibre, and secondly that it should have a high ratio of calcium to phosphorous. In the wild your tortoise would naturally select such items itself, in captivity, you have to provide this diet and failure to do so will result in a deformed or unhealthy tortoise and ultimately a dead one.
Low protein dictates that these species should not ever be fed meat, cat/dog food or 'tortoise chow' in any form. This also suggests that items such as legumes (peas and beans) which are high in vegetable proteins should not be fed or should be fed extremely rarely. Other shop bought greens such as lettuce and cabbage etc. either have no nutritional value, or have a low ratio of calcium to phosphorous. Feeding these items is detrimental to your tortoise and results in over rapid growth, deformity, and death. Fruit and vegetables upset the balance of a tortoises natural gut flora and do not make up a significant part of a wild grassland tortoises diet. These items should be fed in extreme moderation as a treat, or ideally not at all.
Tropical tortoises should be fed a diet which consists of grass or grass hays supplemented with broadleaved non-toxic weeds either harvested from a safe place (i.e. somewhere away from busy roadsides and where pesticides are not used) or grown specifically for the purpose. The flowers of many of these plants are as popular (or more so) as the leaves. Typical plants which should make up the bulk of a tortoise diet include dandelions, clover and plantains. Species such as leopard tortoises will enjoy grazing on a dry lawn (once the dew has evaporated). Timothy grass and other sharp spiky grasses should be avoided. A more comprehensive list of edible plants is found on our edible plants page. All food offered to your tortoise should be lightly dusted with calcium powder and twice a week a good vitamin supplement (designed for reptiles) should be offered.
Arid and grassland tropical tortoise species live in areas where food is not abundant and therefore in the wild feed opportunistically. You can overfeed your tortoise even offering only weeds, and so we find that a good regime is to feed your tortoise as much as it will eat in one sitting four days a week. You could quite easily feed everyday with a smaller amount.

Water

All tortoises, even those from more arid regions appreciate water and contrary to popular belief will drink on a fairly regular basis. Fresh drinking water should therefore be always available in both indoor and outdoor enclosures. Most tortoises enjoy a bath, and this can be a good time to examine your tortoise carefully. The water in the bath should be no higher than the bottom of your tortoises shell (tortoises can drown). Don't worry if your tortoise sticks its head under the water as the can hold their breath for some time. Your tortoise will often urinate or defacate in the water at bath time. This is normal behaviour as the tortoise is sure whilst it is stood in water that it will get some more to replace that lost from the bladder. Just remove the soiled water and replace with fresh. Bath water should be tepid to luke warm only.

Shelter

All tortoises like to get away from it all once in a while. In the wild, many tortoise species either burrow or partially burrow and make use of dense foliage and scrub to conceal themselves whilst they rest. In captivity, tortoises need to be provided with some sort of shelter in both indoor and outdoor accommodation where it is cooler and darker to enable them to regulate their behaviour and body temperature. Failure to provide an adequate shelter will result in a stressed tortoise. Shelters can either be proprietary hollow logs/caves, or a constructed wooden shelter big enough to adequately house your tortoise/tortoises.

Hibernating
Tropical tortoises do not hibernate. Attempting to hibernate a tropical tortoise species will result in serious health problems or death for your tortoise.

Health and Hygiene

It is important to keep your tortoises' indoor and outdoor enclosures clean to prevent disease. Spot clean meticulously any faeces or urine in the substrate, and change all or part of the substrate on a regular basis.
Tortoises can carry bacteria (notably salmonella) which can be harmful to humans and especially young children. Always wash your hands after handling your tortoise or their equipment and don't use kitchen sinks/bathrooms for washing/bathing tortoises or their equipment.

Accommodation for Tortoises


One of the keys to keeping any pet or animal is to provide suitable accomodation, which meets the animals needs for space, shelter, warmth, light, humidity, stimulation and a host of other factors. Reptiles, and in this case tortoises and turtles are an excellent example of animals who fail to thrive in the wrong environment. The key to creating the correct environment for your tortoise is to research your particular species and its natural environment and to imitate this environment as closely as possible.
In the past many tortoises (and especially young tortoises) were kept in aquaria and fish tanks or similar housing and many people who are selling tortoises still offer these as suitable accommodation either through lack of understanding, or desire to make a sale. It is now known that this is not suitable accommodation for tortoises and especially Mediterranean tortoises and arid/desert species (even babies and juveniles), because the lack of air flow due to the enclosed nature of an aquarium means that the relative humidity is much too high for the tortoise and causes respiratory and other health problems.
The best way of housing your tortoise indoors, is to use a tortoise table or some other sort of open enclosure. A tortoise table is so called because it usually consists of an open topped area with raised sides, often on a cupboard or support such as a table to raise the enclosure to a more suitable height for viewing and caring for your tortoises. It is not essential that the enclosure be raised from the ground, and for larger species such as leopard tortoises and sulcatas, it would be very difficult to accommodate these species with enough space on a table! Tortoise tables are often best made from wood or wood and polycarbonate and need to be large enough for the species concerned. An absolute minimum of 4 square feet for one Mediterranean tortoise is a guide size, but obviously the bigger the better and the larger tortoise species mentioned above will need much more space than this. If you are housing more than one tortoise (and especially if you have a male and female(s)) you need to ensure plenty of space and some sight breaks within your set up. It is also necessary to provide a way to suspend heating and lighting equipment in the desired place on your tortoise table/enclosure. On a small to medium sized tortoise table, this is often best achieved by a wooden frame (or frames) which spans the tortoise table from one side to the other at the desired height.
Mediterranean tortoises many tropical tortoises come from arid, warm environments where in the summer the temperatures frequently (or constantly) top thirty degrees centigrade and therefore need additional heat sources when kept indoors in the UK. The background temperature of the room in which the tortoise is kept needs to be at least 20 degrees centigrade (preferably 25 degrees for tropical species) and a basking lamp (or more than one if you have several tortoises living together) must be provided. These can take the form of an ordinary light bulb, a special reptile bulb which also emit UV radiation, or a ceramic heating element. Whichever you choose, the ground temperature under the basking lamp should be around thirty degrees centigrade and the lamp should not be close enough for the tortoises to be able to touch it (they will readily climb onto each other) to avoid burns. Heat mats and hot rocks are unsuitable for Mediterranean tortoises and will cause burns to your tortoises if used. There needs to be enough room for your tortoises to all be able to get underneath the basking lamp to ensure that each tortoise can adequately regulate its body temperature. In order to provide a temperature gradient within the tortoise enclosure, it is advisable to put all heating at one end, preferably the opposite end to the tortoises shelter. Care is necessary when placing other objects in your tortoise's enclosure that the tortoise cannot fall on its back under the lamp in an area where it would not be able to right itself as this could lead to dehydration.
The Mediterranean and the tropics are areas which receive almost constant bright sunshine throughout the spring and summer months and this is what a tortoise is designed for. The sun provides the heat which the tortoise needs as described above, but it also provides ultra violet light in the form of UVa and UVb rays. In captivity this light has to be provided artificially for your tortoise and especially if your tortoise is to be kept indoors for a significant part of the year. Tortoises need UVa light in order to maintain their general behaviour patterns and to remain active and healthy. For instance, tortoises which get plenty of UVa light are reputed to be more likely to breed successfully. The main requirement of your tortoise is UVb light. Tortoises need a large amount of calcium in their diet in order to grow normally and produce healthy bones and shells. In order to metabolise this calcium your tortoise also needs adequate supplies of vitamin D3. In the wild, tortoises produce their own vitamin D3 from the UVb rays in the sunlight. In captivity it is vital therefore, if you do not want your tortoise to become seriously ill, that you provide adequate amounts of UVb light for your tortoise. In summer this is relatively easy if your tortoise is put outside in the sunshine. When your tortoise is indoors, artificial light is required and this is best provided by special fluorescent tubes (note:normal fluorescent tubes will not do) available from specialist pet stores. The normal UVb tubes (often rated 5.0) are sufficient and very high rated tubes may be detrimental to your tortoises' sight in the long term. The larger the tubes and the more you have the better for your tortoise, however it is advisable to have these tubes at one side of the enclosure (away from the hides/shelters and at the same end as the basking lamps is best) to provide a light gradient within the enclosure. Fluorescent tubes need to be situated as close to the tortoise as possible to provide adequate UVb light. If the tubes are more than 18 inches away from the tortoises then much of their effect will be lost. Fluorescent tubes give out a negligible amount of heat and can not be used as a substitute for basking lamps.
Many different theories and opinions exist as to what is the correct substrate for tortoises. Although many people have success using shredded newspaper, old towels or alfalfa pellets and other such artificial substrates, we believe that the most natural thing is a natural substrate and suggest 2 ways of doing this.
For smaller tortoise tables, the use of seed trays with different substrates such as rocks, gravel, sand, compost and plants makes cleaning and changing the substrate easy and allows for preparation of planted trays which can then just be swapped.
Our preferred method is to use a 50/50 mix of clean sand (such as playpit sand) and topsoil to a depth of 3-4 inches as the substrate for the whole enclosure. Some gravel can be added to this mix and at least one area of larger stones/small rocks is essential to help keep tortoises claws in shape and to provide interest. Plants can then be added as well as sterilised logs (if found out doors first soak in very strong salt solution for 48 hours and then water for 48 hours and allow to thoroughly dry before placing in the enclosure to remove bugs and other pathogens) to provide further interest and in the case of plants, food!
The main issue when keeping your tortoise outdoors, is security, especially for juvenile tortoises to prevent predation, theft, or escape. A surprisingly large number of native animals and pets would like to eat your tortoise with dogs, cats, foxes, badgers, herons, crows and magpies all being on the list. This outdoor area needs to be as large as possible with a variety of plants, soil and lawn being the best habitat. Many people provide all or part of a greenhouse for their tortoise to retreat to in cooler or inclement weather, but they also need to be able to access a cooler area than just the greenhouse to enable them to regulate their own body temperature. If a greenhouse is not available a wooden shelter (or dog kennel) with a rainproof lockable lid is essential in case of rain and to provide shelter and a cooler, darker environment should it be hot. The outdoor area also needs to be escape proof as Mediterranean tortoises are excellent at digging (especially Horsfield's). A run on a lawn is not suitable for a Mediterranean tortoise as the grass is too damp and may cause health problems.

Feeding Tortoises


Along with correct hibernation and accommodation, the right diet is essential for your tortoise. Whilst interacting with your tortoises is one of the reasons for keeping them, and feeding is a good opportunity to get to know your tortoise better, overfeeding or incorrectly feeding your tortoise will ultimately only cause problems. Unfortunately, a desire to make things more interesting for your tortoise and to interact with it is also a reason why many inexperienced tortoise owners overfeed or incorrectly feed their tortoise. Giving your tortoise a 'treat' which would not form a part of the tortoise's natural diet is not a kindness, and if repeated frequently can lead to over rapid growth, illness, deformity and even death. Tortoises have strict dietary requirements and these need to be adhered to if your tortoise is to thrive, and to potentially outlive its owner! This page outlines the correct diet for a Mediterranean tortoise, and also addresses the needs of grassland and arid tropical species of tortoise.
A tortoise needs a good balance of food and water, calcium, vitamins and UVb light. Without each of these elements in the diet your tortoise will be unable to grow correctly and to produce healthy bone, shell and tissue. In the wild, tortoises choose their own food, or it is dictated by the surroundings into which they were born and they get their UVb light from the large amounts of sunshine available in their natural habitat. In the UK, the food offered to tortoises cannot be guaranteed to contain enough calcium and vitamins, or the correct ratios of vitamins and minerals and so supplementation of your tortoises diet is essential. Also, in the UK sunlight is in rather shorter supply than in the Mediterranean or the tropics and so artificial UVb light must be provided in order for your tortoise to be able to make vitamin D3 which is essential for your tortoise to be able to absorb the calcium in its diet. You can feed your tortoise as much calcium and on as good a diet as you like, but without enough sunlight or artificial UVb light, your tortoise will fail to thrive.
So what makes up a good diet for a Mediterranean tortoise? The key to the diet of Mediterranean tortoises is 'Low protein, low carbohydrate, high fibre, high calcium'. If you follow this rule your tortoise will thrive. There is still a lot of conflicting and bad advice given out about tortoise diets, often by people more interested in a sale than in the welfare of the tortoise. Each element necessary to a tortoises diet will be addressed below in order to clarify what is meant by a 'Low protein, low carbohydrate, high fibre, high calcium' diet.
Low protein dictates that these species of tortoise should not ever be fed meat, cat/dog food or 'tortoise chow' in any form. This also suggests that items such as legumes (peas and beans) which are high in vegetable proteins should not be fed at all or should be fed extremely rarely. Other shop bought greens such as lettuce and cabbage etc. either have no nutritional value, or have a low ratio of calcium to phosphorous. Feeding these items is detrimental to your tortoise and results in over rapid growth, deformity, and death.
Low carbohydrate means that your tortoise should not be fed fruit or vegetables on a regular basis if at all. Fruit and vegetables can upset the balance of a tortoises natural gut flora causing illness and diarrhoea and do not make up a significant part of a wild Mediterranean or grassland tortoises diet. These items should be fed in extreme moderation as a treat, or ideally not at all.
High fibre means broad leaved weeds and flowers, and in the case of tropical grassland species, grasses. This is the natural diet of these species, and is what they are designed to eat. High calcium, is a three pronged requirement. Firstly, you should add calcium to your tortoises diet regularly, to ensure adequate supply. Secondly, you should avoid foods with a high phosphorous to calcium ratio as this reduces your tortoises ability to absorb and use the calcium even if it is available. Thirdly, your tortoise must be given adequate UVb light (either sunshine or artificial lamps), to enable it to absorb and use the calcium in its diet.
In the wild most tropical tortoises cover large areas in search of their primary food: weeds and grasses. They are nomadic grazers by habit and in the wild select their own food items, which fulfil all of the above requirements. It is essential not to offer your tortoise the wrong food or too much food, as even on the correct diet, your tortoise can be overfed, especially in young or sick tortoises which are not hibernated over winter. we find that a good regime is to feed your tortoise as much as it will eat in one sitting (an hour) four days a week. Any food left after the hour, should be cleared away. You could quite easily feed everyday with a smaller amount. Some people recommend feeding enough weeds to just cover your tortoises shell every day. It is up to you to find a regime which suits you and your tortoise.
Tropical tortoises should be fed a diet which consists of grass or grass hays supplemented with broadleaved non-toxic weeds and plants either harvested from a safe place (i.e. the garden or somewhere away from busy roadsides and where pesticides are not used) or grown specifically for the purpose. Mediterranean species of tortoise should be fed primarily on the weeds without, or with much reduced proportions, of the grass and grass hay. The flowers of many of these plants are as popular (or more so) as the leaves. Typical plants which should make up the bulk of a tortoise diet include dandelions, clover and plantains. Many species of tortoises will enjoy grazing on a dry lawn (once the dew has evaporated), especially if the lawn contains a good selection of weeds! Timothy grass and other sharp spiky grasses should be avoided. A more comprehensive list of edible plants is found on our edible plants page. All food offered to your tortoise should be lightly dusted with calcium powder and twice a week a good vitamin supplement (designed for reptiles) should be offered.
It is a common myth that tortoises do not drink, and obtain all of their water from their food. This is incorrect, and given the opportunity, all tortoises will relish the chance to drink. We believe that water should be on offer to your tortoises all (or at least most) of the time to avoid the risk of dehydration, in an artificially created environment. Additionally, your tortoise will use bathtime to have a drink if offered a bath a couple of times a week.

Lighting for Tortoises


Most tortoises (with the exception of some rainforest species) are used to almost constant bright sunshine in the wild and are unable to perform basic functions such as digesting their food, reproducing and even moving about without sunlight or some form of artificial sunlight. The sun provides tortoises and turtles with two things, heat and light. As all tortoises are reptiles this means that they are cold blooded (poikilothermic) and can therefore not regulate their own body temperature, but must rely on the climate in which they live and its fluctuations and microclimates in order to maintain and adjust their body temperature. In the wild all of this heat comes from the natural sunshine, and this is the reason why tortoises are not found in the cooler climatic zones of the world.
The second thing which the sun does for tortoises is to provide ultra violet light in the form of UVa and UVb rays. In captivity this light has to be provided artificially for your tortoise and especially if your tortoise is to be kept indoors for a significant part of the year. Tortoises need UVa light in order to maintain their general behaviour patterns and to remain active and healthy. For instance, tortoises which get plenty of UVa light are reputed to be more likely to breed successfully.
The main requirement of your tortoise is UVb light. Tortoises need a large amount of calcium in their diet in order to grow normally and produce healthy bones and shells. In order to metabolise this calcium your tortoise also needs adequate supplies of vitamin D3. In the wild, tortoises produce their own vitamin D3 from the UVb rays in the sunlight. In captivity it is vital therefore, if you do not want your tortoise to become seriously ill, that you provide adequate amounts of UVb light for your tortoise. In summer this is relatively easy if your tortoise is put outside in the sunshine. When your tortoise is indoors, artificial light is required and this is best provided by special fluorescent tubes (note:normal fluorescent tubes will not do) available from specialist pet stores. The normal UVb tubes (often rated 5.0) are sufficient and very high rated tubes may be detrimental to your tortoises' sight in the long term. The larger the tubes and the more you have the better for your tortoise, however it is advisable to have these tubes at one side of the enclosure (away from the hides/shelters and at the same end as the basking lamps is best) to provide a light gradient within the enclosure. Fluorescent tubes need to be situated as close to the tortoise as possible to provide adequate UVb light. If the tubes are more than 18 inches away from the tortoises then much of their effect will be lost. Fluorescent tubes give out a negligible amount of heat and can not be used as a substitute for basking lamps. Fluorescent tubes must be changed at least every 12 months as they lose their effectiveness over time and stop emitting UVb rays.
Other forms of light which emit UVb rays are now available such as mercury vapour bulbs. These bulbs emit UVB and heat and can be used as light and basking heat sources. These sort of bulbs are usually much more expensive than the equivalent fluorescent, but they can be useful if space is limited and they emit effective levels of UVb rays for a much longer period than fluorescent tubes, which means that they need changing less frequently.
It is very important that the lights you buy for your tortoise are designed for reptile use and state clearly on the packaging that they produce UVb rays. Many lamps and bulbs which state that they are 'full spectrum' or 'wide spectrum' do produce a variety of light wavelengths, but may produce a negligible amount of UVa and UVb rays if any! Also be aware that there is no industry standard for grading bulbs UVb emmision using percentages and that therefore, bulbs strength and effectiveness may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Supplements Tortoises


Correct diet is essential to a healthy tortoise. In the wild, the tortoise is in control of its own diet and naturally selects the correct foods with the correct balance of vitamins and minerals. In captivity, a tortoise usually has to eat what it is given and this diet is sometimes lacking in some of the tortoises basic needs.
The most common deficiency in tortoise diets in the UK is calcium deficiency. Calcium is essential to tortopise for bone and shell formation and maintainence and l deficiency results in soft shells and other deformities. Calcium deficiency can be caused in three ways. Firstly, by offering foods which haven't got enough calcium content to start with. Secondly, by offering foods which have a poor phosphorous:calcium ratio (i.e. the have too much phosphorous and not enough calcium) such as rhubarb leaves or shop bought vegetables. Finally, calcium is absobed in many animals by a process involving vitamin D3. In herbivorous animals such as tortoises, there is little or no vitamin D3 in their diet, so it is manufactured by the tortoise using the UVb rays from sunshine. Failure to provide adequate levels of UVb rays for your tortoise will mean that it cannot absorb enough calcium regardless of how much there is in the diet.
In order to ensure that your tortoise does not become deficient in calcium it is necessary to provide extra calcium in th form of supplements. Many manufacturers provide some sort of calcium carbonate dust which can be added to your tortoises food every feed or every other feed depending on your preference. We find that the best way to get the calcium onto leaves and flowers is to first make sure that the leaves and flowers are reasonably dry (or the calcium just clumps up and clings to wetter areas) and then to put the leaves and flowers into a plastic bag along with the calcium powder. Blow the bag up and twit to seal it and then shake it vigourously. The result should be that your leaves and flowers are given a thin even coating of calcium powder.
In order to ensure that vital trace elements and other vitamins and minerals are not omitted from your tortoises diet (usually due to lack of variety in available foodstuffs), it is advisable to dust your tortoises food at least once or twice a week with a good quality vitamin and mineral supplement designed specifically for reptiles. There are several different manufacturers making suitable supplements in powder form and these can be added to the food in the same way as the calcium powder (described above).

Water and Tortoises


It is a common myth that tortoises do not drink, and obtain all of their water from their food. This is incorrect, and given the opportunity, all tortoises will relish the chance to drink. Many tortoises in the wild live near freshwater and at times will both drink and bathe in it.
We believe that water should be on offer to your tortoises all (or at least most) of the time to avoid the risk of dehydration, in an artificially created environment. Water should be provided in a bowl or tray and should be no deeper than is necessary to allow your tortoise to stand in it with its head fully clear of the surface to avoid drowning. If you use a tray or a big enough bowl, your tortoise will often voluntarily bathe in the water provided. Care must be taken to ensure that the water is kept clean. Tortoises will often defacate and especially urinate in water and therefore water in the tortoises' enclosure should be changed at least once a day.
We feel that bathing your tortoise is something which is good for the animals and encourages good hygiene and good hydration of your tortoise. Bathtimes are also the perfect time for a closer look at each tortoise and an inspection to ensure good health. Bathing of your tortoise should not take place in sinks or baths used for humans, due to the risk of cross infection. We prefer to use a large plastic container with a flat bottom. About half an inch of tepid to luke warm water is provided and the tortoises are carefully dried using kitchen towel afterwards (especially important in cooler weather). Our tortoises are bathed for ten minutes a couple of times a week.

Hibernating Tortoises


Hibernation is possibly the most worrying part of owning a tortoise. In the past, many tortoises which went into hibernation died as a result of lack of knowledge or inadequate housing/temperature control.
There is still some ambiguity regarding hibernation with regards to methods, timescales and preparation. It is important to remember that hibernation is an important and natural part of a healthy tortoise’s life in the wild, and if we are to emulate natural conditions as closely as possible, hibernating your tortoise is not an option but a necessity.
This guide will hopefully clear up some of the myths and confusion surrounding the hibernation of tortoises and will make sure that your tortoise is hibernated safely.

What is Hibernation?

Hibernation is the time when your tortoise or turtle will ‘sleep’ through the cold weather of winter. This is not a normal sleep where the brain is still active and noise or movement can easily awaken the sleeper, but is a torpor through which metabolic activity is very, very low.
In the wild, as they are cold blooded, tortoises begin to prepare for the winter hibernation period as the temperature starts to drop. As these tortoises are native to the Mediterranean where the winters are shorter and milder than in the UK, it is necessary to artificially prolong the summer of your tortoise indoors to avoid excessively long hibernation periods.
Hibernation is part of a tortoise or turtles natural yearly cycle and so it is important to allow hibernating species the opportunity to hibernate and this seems to improve their natural behaviour patterns throughout the year (for instance tortoises which are hibernated tend to breed more readily and successfully).

What is Aestivation?

It is important not to confuse winter hibernation with aestivation. Aestivation is torpor or hibernation due to high temperatures or lack of water and occurs during hot and rain-free summers. There may be several reasons for aestivation such as a lack of food and water or excessively high temperatures.
During aestivation tortoises bury themselves below ground in burrows. These burrows have temperatures which are much lower than those above ground and the relative humidity is very much higher. This microclimate combined with little or no activity, result in a vastly reduced rate of fluid loss and therefore the need to eat or drink is vastly reduced.

Is Your Tortoise a Hibernating species?

The first thing to be sure of when it comes to hibernating your tortoise is that you have a species of tortoise which would naturally hibernate in the wild. If you try to hibernate a species of tortoise for which this is not natural behaviour, you will end up with only one result: a dead tortoise.
A general rule of thumb, Mediterranean tortoises do hibernate, and tropical tortoises don’t hibernate. Most of the commonly available species in Britain will fit into one of these two categories which are more clearly broken down in the table below.

Common Name Scientific Name Does it hibernate?
Hermanns tortoise Testudo hermanni Yes
Spur-thighed tortoise Testudo graeca Yes
Marginated tortoise Testudo marginata Yes
Horsfields tortoise Testudo horsfieldi Yes
Leopard tortoise Geochelone paradis No
Sulcata tortoise Geochelone sulcata No
Indian Star tortoise Geochelone elegans No
Red footed tortoise Geochelone carbonaria No

It is vitally important that you know the exact species and subspecies of tortoise which you own as the list in the above table is not by any means complete and only contains information for the commonly available British tortoise species. Many other more unusual tortoise and terrapin species may hibernate (for instance many box turtles do so) and their requirements may be different. Also some of the African subspecies of the spur thighed tortoise may not hibernate due to the hot nature of the climate in which they live.
This guide is aimed at safe hibernation of Mediterranean tortoise species only and we cannot urge you enough to make sure that you know exactly what species of tortoise you own (many forums or the Tortoise Trust will help you with identification if you are unsure) and exactly what its hibernation/overwintering needs are if it is to be kept safely in this country.

What If I Own A Tropical Tortoise?

If your tortoise is a species which does not hibernate, but stays awake and feeding all the year round, then you need to make adequate arrangements to see your tortoise safely through the winter months. Due to the damp and cool climate in the UK and the regular fluctuation of temperatures between night and day (especially as it drops below freezing), it is totally inappropriate to keep a tropical tortoise outside at all during the winter months.
The only way to keep these tortoises for the cooler six months of the year is to have them in an indoor area where the daytime background temperature is above 20 degrees centigrade and the night time temperature does not drop below 10 degrees centigrade. Neither is it possible to rely on the background temperature of the room in which the tortoise is kept as the only source of heat and light even if it meets the above temperature criteria. Tropical tortoises need to be able to regulate their body temperatures. This means having a temperature gradient across their enclosure with a hot basking area and a cooler area with somewhere to hide. To achieve this your enclosure needs adequate basking lamps at on end/corner. Tropical tortoises also need a source of full spectrum light containing both UVB and UVA rays to enable them to maintain normal behaviour patterns and to absorb the vitamins/minerals from their food. The enclosure should be cooler and dark through the nighttime period.

Is Your Tortoise Old Enough to Hibernate?

Many tortoise authorities suggest that you do not hibernate your tortoise for the first 2 or three years of its life or until its plastron length exceeds 10cm. This is not necessarily detrimental to your tortoise provided that you can provide it with the correct conditions and food over the winter months and indeed any tortoise which is sick or underweight should not be hibernated under any circumstances. To overwinter your tortoise, you must create for it an artificial summer throughout the winter months complete with heat, light and food (see ‘What If I Own a Tropical Tortoise’ above). If a tortoise is of a hibernating species however, it would, in its natural environment, hibernate from birth without any ill effect. This is what these tortoises are designed to do. We feel that hibernating all tortoises, regardless of age, is the more natural way to proceed and is better for the tortoise in the long run.
In order to achieve successful hibernation, however you need to adjust the length of the hibernation period to the age of the tortoise to be hibernated. A suggested age to hibernation regime is suggested below.

Tortoise Age Hibernation Period
New born hatchlings 0 weeks
1 year old tortoise 3 weeks
2 year old tortoise 6 weeks
3 year old tortoise 10 weeks
4 year old tortoise 14 weeks
5 years old upwards 18 weeks

Some people advocate hibernating tortoises for as much as six month of the year. This does fit in better with the British climate, but would seem to be done more for the benefit of the tortoise owner than for the benefit of the tortoise or turtle itself as they would never naturally hibernate for this length of time in the wild. We feel that it is not advisable to hibernate any tortoise for more than twenty weeks maximum.
It must be stressed again, that any tortoise which is underweight or ill in any way should not be hibernated but should be overwintered safely indoors.

What are the Benefits of Hibernation?

Hibernation for tortoises is an important biological process and we strongly feel that all Mediterranean species of tortoise require some form of winter hibernation to remain healthy in captivity (unless they are already sick).
Tortoises which are not hibernated can become lethargic and are less likely to breed successfully. Due to the fact that they are fed through the winter tortoises which are not hibernated can also grow too quickly which can potentially cause them health problems in later life. There is also more difficulty in obtaining a natural tortoise diet of weeds and grasses during the winter months as these do not grow well outside at this time of year.
Feeding 'salad' type foods which are high in phosphates (most supermarket grown food has high levels of phosphates) and often low in calcium and fiber can exacerbate or cause further health problems for your tortoise.
In short tortoises are designed to hibernate. It is part of their natural yearly rhythm. We feel that any tortoise which is well enough and heavy enough to be hibernated should be hibernated.

Is My Tortoise Fit to Hibernate?

There are two main issues which need to be addressed when you are deciding whether or not your tortoise is fit to hibernate. Firstly, your tortoise needs to be heavy enough for its length. Secondly, your tortoise needs to be fit and well and free from any signs of illness, injury or disease. You need to begin deciding whether your tortoise is fit for hibernation some weeks before you are going to hibernate in order to be prepared for either eventuality.
To assess your tortoise’s health you can use the following checklist:

-Has your tortoise been eating well?
-Is its nose dry and its breathing free from wheezing?
-Are your tortoise’s eyes clear with no stickiness or discharge?
-Are its ears flat and free from discharge?
-Check that your tortoise does not have a discoloured or spotty mouth.
-Are there any swellings or lumps around the tail or legs?
-Is your tortoise’s faeces moist but firm without any diarrhoea/slime/offensive smell?
-Is your tortoise free from any other external injuries?

If your tortoise is showing any of the above signs it should be isolated from any other tortoises and taken to a vet who specialises in tortoises/turtles.
To assess your tortoise’s weight you should use one of the following two methods:
Probably the most popular method of calculating safe hibernation weights in Mediterranean tortoises is to use the Jackson ratio.
This ratio is only suited to Hermann's tortoises and Testudo graeca sub-species as these species have a 'normal' body shape. It is not suitable for Horsfield's tortoises as they are too short and appear overweight, or Marginated tortoises which are too long and appear underweight. It is definately not suitable for any other species of tortoises, turtles or terrapins which hibernate. The Jackson Ratio is usually expressed as a graph (see below).
Tortoises which fall either side of the ‘mean weight for length’ ratio can be safely hibernated. Tortoises which are on or below the ‘Dangerously low weight for length’ ratio (or are even approaching it) should not be hibernated but should be safely overwintered in an artificial indoor environment.
There is another method of calculating whether your tortoises weight is sufficient for it to survive hibernation which some people claim is a more accurate method called the Bone Density Ratio.
The bone density can be calculated by obtaining your tortoises weight in grams and dividing it by the tortoises total straight shell length cubed. If the result falls between .20 - .25 then it is considered safe to hibernate your tortoise.

This calculation is easier than appears.

- Firstly turn your tortoise on its back and accurately measure the length of the plastron length in cm's.
- Multiply this length by its self 3 times (plastron length cubed).
- Weigh the tortoise in grams.
- Divide the weight in grams by the length.
- If the outcome is between .20 and .25 it's safe to hibernate your tortoise.

Example

If the length of your tortoise is 6cm, multiply this by itself 3 times - 6 x 6 x 6= 216
The weight in grams is 52 grams
52 divided by 216 = 0.24 (round your answer to the first 2 figures)
This tortoise has the correct bone density ratio to hibernate. (between .20 -.25)

Hazards and Mistakes of Hibernation

There are numerous hazards and mistakes which face tortoises and turtles during hibernation and these are increased by the fact that you are hibernating your tortoise in an artificial environment.
There are three main natural errors which affect hibernating tortoises and three main problems which occur due to mistakes in husbandry either before or during hibernation.
Probably the biggest killer however, is attempting to hibernate a sick or underweight tortoise. Make sure you read the tortoise fitness section above and follow the guidelines given there.
Natural hazards which can kill or damage your tortoise during hibernation are freezing, drowning, or predators.
Tortoises need to be hibernated at a temperature of between 3 and 7 degrees centigrade (these are the outside limits 5-6 degrees centigrade is the optimum temperature to maintain your tortoise at). If you allow the temperature to fall below 3 degrees centigrade you risk your tortoise starting to freeze. Because tortoises are poikilothermic (cold blooded) they are totally incapable of maintaining their own body temperature and can easily freeze to death. Even if your tortoise doesn’t die, freezing temperatures can cause blindness or tissue damage leaving you with a permanently maimed tortoise.
Do not hibernate your tortoise anywhere where there is a remote possibility of frost. Always monitor the temperature of your tortoise during the hibernation period. Do provide insulation (described below) to help protect your tortoise from temperature fluctuation.
Drowning is a hazard for tortoises which are hibernated naturally outside. Try to encourage your tortoise to hibernate on higher or well drained ground. If your tortoise gets wet it will not dry out as it is poikilothermic and generates no heat. Also, if you hibernate your tortoise in an outhouse/greenhouse make sure it doesn’t leak or flood.
Predators are another hazard of hibernation. Your tortoise is totally defenceless whilst hibernating and if you’re not careful, your tortoise could be partially eaten resulting in lost limbs or even death. As long as your tortoise is in a secure box then the risk from larger predators such as foxes is minimal. Rats and mice are the main hazard in the UK. Ensure that your tortoise is hibernated in an area which is totally secure from rats or mice. If you hibernate your tortoise in an outhouse/garage etc. then you need to make sure that there is no access to the box in which your tortoise is hibernating. Fine gauge wire mesh around the box is possibly the safest option available.
It is important to minimise the risk of other hibernation hazards which are usually caused by poor or incorrect tortoise husbandry prior to or during hibernation.
Dehydration kills many tortoises in hibernation. It is essential to ensure that your tortoise has regular baths and opportunities to rehydrate itself prior to being hibernated. Tortoises must be hibernated with a full bladder. If, when you are inspecting your tortoise during its hibernation, you find that it has urinated, it should be removed from hibernation immediately and slowly warmed in a lukewarm bath to ensure adequate rehydration. Such tortoises will need to be kept awake in an artificial summer environment for the rest of the winter.
It is also important to weigh your tortoise at least every other week whilst it is hibernating to ensure it is not losing too much weight. If your tortoise is losing more than 1% of its initial hibernating weight in a month it may be becoming dehydrated and again should be awoken for the rest of the winter period.
Allowing your tortoise to get too warm whilst it is hibernating is another common mistake. When a tortoise awakens from hibernation, its body releases a store of glycogen which gives the tortoise enough of an energy boost to enable initial foraging for food and water. If a tortoise is repeatedly brought up to temperatures approaching 10 degrees centigrade, it will have used up these reserves and will be in a poor condition come spring. It is vital to monitor the temperature of your tortoise whist it is hibernating to ensure they remain between 3 and 7 degrees centigrade. If your tortoise has been repeatedly awakened then it will need to be taken out of hibernation and overwintered indoors. Note that briefly handling a hibernating tortoise (for weighing for example) will not wake it up and tortoises so move slightly during hibernation. The only way to be absolutely sure if you may have a problem is to accurately monitor the temperature of your hibernating tortoise using a minimum/maximum thermometer (available at garden centres) throughout the hibernation period.
Another problem which can potentially kill your tortoise during hibernation or just after it is hibernating your tortoise with a full stomach. During hibernation the food in the stomach ferments creating gases and toxins which in turn can cause internal damage and trauma to your tortoise. Specific conditions caused by hibernating your tortoise with a full stomach are tympanic colic and numerous bacteriological infections inside the tortoise. We recommend not feeding your tortoises for at least four weeks before you hibernate them to ensure that they have an empty stomach when thy commence hibernation. It is important that regular water is available and that your tortoises are bathed prior to hibernation to ensure a full bladder (see above).

Preparing for Hibernation

For a couple of weeks, slowly reduce the amount of food your tortoise is given by feeding more occasionally and in smaller quantities.
Four weeks before hibernation, stop feeding your tortoise completely and gradually reduce the temperature and the amount of daylight over the four weeks prior to hibernation.
Continue to provide water for your tortoise and give him a weekly bath. This will ensure adequate hydration and may encourage defecation.
Once your tortoise has had nothing to eat and has been slowly cooled for four weeks he is ready to be hibernated.
Hibernation Methods

There are 3 main ways to artificially hibernate a tortoise.

1. The Box Method

This is the traditional way to hibernate a tortoise and has several variations.
It basically involves putting your tortoise into a reasonably tight fitting box (cardboard is best but a tupperware type box with air holes in the lid will suffice) with some insulation material (we prefer nearly dry soil or compost as this keeps the tortoise better hydrated, but shredded newspaper will do) inside a second box (preferably wooden) filled with tightly packed newspaper or polystyrene chips.
An improvement on the original method provides better insulation and therefore better protects your tortoise from extremes of temperature. The main difference is the use of a large polystyrene box usually used for transporting fish (which can be obtained from a good aquatic retailer) instead of the outside box. These boxes are designed for insulating fish during transport and therefore provide a much better level of insulation than a standard wood or cardboard box. The tortoise itself is put in a cardboard box not much bigger than the tortoise itself which is half filled with nearly dry compost or soil. This box is placed in the centre of the insulated polystyrene box (not on the bottom) and completely surrounded with packed newspaper or polystyrene chips. Make sure that neither box is completely sealed as although tortoises don’t use a lot of air whilst they are hibernating, they do need some! Small air holes are the best way of achieving this without losing too much insulation.
With the box method it is essential to monitor hibernation temperatures throughout preferably with a digital thermometer. Place the probe the thermometer probe in the inner box with the tortoise and the control panel on the outside to enable you to check the temperature daily without disturbing your tortoise. The entire box setup can then be placed in an outhouse, garage, shed or cool spare room.

2. The Fridge Method

This method is a more recent phenomenon and usually allows more secure and accurately controlled hibernation for your tortoise. With this method a fridge is used to control temperatures throughout hibernation. It is essential to check that your fridge is functioning properly with a digital high/low thermometer for a couple of weeks prior to hibernation. It is also necessary to ensure adequate air supply within the fridge. This can be achieved by opening the fridge door for a few moments daily, or by cutting out part of the fridge door seal and running a small air pump into the fridge.
The tortoise is placed in a cardboard box just slightly larger than itself which is half full of nearly dry soil/compost or shredded newspaper in the same way as for the box method. The box is then placed in the fridge set at 5C. A digital thermometer needs to be placed inside the fridge and the temperature checked on a daily basis.
3. The Natural Method

This is as the name suggests the most natural method of hibernation for your tortoise, but it is not really recommended in the UK due to the temperamental weather, damp and difficulty in monitoring your tortoise during hibernation.
In the wild tortoises bury themselves in soft, dry sandy soil usually under bushes or at the foot of trees. The soil protects the tortoise from the elements and also from predators whilst maintaining humidity and the correct microclimate for the tortoise. If this method is to be used in the UK then it should be strictly within the confines of a greenhouse, with a soil base.
The tortoise needs to be starved in the usual way and its weight checked. Tortoises should only be allowed to hibernate in this way if they are extremely healthy since it is much more difficult to check on them during hibernation. They should then be allowed to burrow into the soil and the exact location should be noted. The soil should be dry and well drained. If your greenhouse leaks then this method is not appropriate as your tortoise will become too wet or even drown. The area where the tortoise has buried itself can then be covered with leaves as a further level of insulation.

How do I Wake My Tortoise Up?

When it’s time to wake your tortoise or if it has woken itself or needs to be brought out of hibernation for health reasons, the following procedure should be followed:

- Place your tortoise at room temperature for 2-3 hours and allow its temperature to rise slowly.
- Perform all of the same health checks which you carried out before hibernation.
- Put your tortoise somewhere warm and bright until it is fully awake (for instance its tortoise table/indoor enclosure with the lamps and lights on). This should take 30 minutes to an hour.
- Offer your tortoise a drink.

It is vitally important to get your tortoise drinking within the first few hours of waking up from hibernation. Sometimes getting a tortoise to drink is difficult after hibernation. Putting him in a bath of lukewarm water is more likely to stimulate a response. Once your tortoise is drinking, you can offer him food. It is important that your tortoise eats within the first week after hibernation.
If your tortoise is not eating after a week, will not drink, or has any other health problems, immediate veterinary attention from a vet who specialises in tortoises/reptiles is required. There is a lot of conflicting advice about the hibernation of tortoises and the best method of hibernation.
Possibly the most important thing to be sure of is what species of tortoise you have and whether this species of tortoise would naturally hibernate in the wild.
As a general rule of thumb, Mediterranean tortoise species do hibernate, and tropical species don't.
This page discusses hibernation and the best methods of hibernating your tortoise successfully. It also aims to explode many hibernation myths by answering all of the important hibernation questions.